
AQUATECH
A publication of AquaTouch containing Tips & Techniques for being a successful
Marine Aquarist...
AquaTips:
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pH testing... accurate results include testing your water immediately after removing
from the tank. Transporting water to the store will NOT give you an accurate reading.
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When testing pH make sure you log the time of day. Generally the pH is lowest right
before the lights come on. It then gradually rises until the lights go off. Compare
results from the same time periods.
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RO (reverse osmosis) water does not have ANY buffering capacity. Adding a KH or pH
buffer to the RO (prior to use) will help maintain proper alkalinity levels.
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If your alkalinity levels are low... it is best to raise it slowly. No more than a 1.0
meq/l or 2.8 dKH rise per day is recommended. This minimizes calcium precipitation too!
Fish Spotlight:
Flame Hawk
Neocirrhites armatus is a favorite of many hobbyist, both in
reef and fish-only tanks. Adults can reach a length of 3 inches. They have red bodies with
a thick black stripe at the base of the dorsal fin. Their black outlined eyes appear
almost "chameleon" like. Most hobbyist enjoy the peculiar ability of this fish
to rest on the rocks and decorations. This "perching" ability of the hawk family
is due to their lack of a swim bladder. They cannot suspend themselves in the water as
other fish, unless of course they move their pectoral fins. Once they stop swimming...
they sink! They dart from rock to rock, always aware of their surroundings as well as
their owners proximity to food. They feed on most prepared foods, preferring meaty types
like mysis shrimp & ocean plankton. If you're looking for a fish with personality, the
Flame Hawk is a must!
Cleaner Shrimp
Cleaner Shrimp are a great addition to any reef tank. They do
best in small groups (2 or more). They also work well in passive fish-only tanks, as long
as there are no predators! It is not uncommon for them to set up a "cleaning
station", generally a rock that is highly visible to all. They attract fish to come
by for a thorough exterior investigation. These shrimp remove dead scales, clean wounds
and even remove parasites. Some fish will even swim away from the "cleaning
station" with the shrimp on board. Returning the shrimp when the fish feels he has
been satisfied. In the wild these shrimp can be seen inside the open mouths of groupers
and eels. They understand that the shrimp provides an important benefit and generally do
not choose to make a quick lunch out of them.
AquaTouch News:
Improved Quarantine System
As our customers are aware... we feel very strongly
about supplying healthy specimens. All of our fish go through a 10-14 day quarantine
period before they are available for sale. We do this for several reasons; reduces stress
on the new animal, trains them to feed on prepared foods and makes sure that only healthy
specimens end up in your tank(s). In our effort to improved our quarantine process we have
installed Emperor Aquatic 25 watt quartz sleeved ultraviolet sterilizers on each of our 12
holding systems. This effort constitutes our continued commitment of providing the
healthiest possible animals available.
Q: Calcium & alkalinity levels vary in my reef tank. How
can I stabilize this?
A: The relationship of these two components constitutes an important part of our captive
reef environment. It is equally important in fish-only systems that use live rock as well.
Often we have trouble maintaining calcium & alkalinity in proper ratio (ionicly
balanced). This leads to limited growth of our calcifying organisms, such as; coraline
algae, corals & clams. Calcium is a mineral used by some marine life to build
structure, like their skeleton, shell or spicules. But the calcium is not usable unless it
is combined with a form of bicarbonate (alkalinity). Together they allow the organisms to
form calcium carbonate, the actual building material. Many hobbyist fail to see the
relationship between calcium & alkalinity. This creates situations where one of the
components is higher or lower than the other (ionicly imbalanced). This slows down the
growth of organisms that require the balance.
Your goal should be to maintain calcium at 350-400 ppm & alkalinity above 2.8 meq/l (8
dKH). Many hobbyist have found that when using balanced supplements, it is easier to
maintain their tank requirements. Some methods include Kalkwasser, the two part liquid
solutions (B-Ionic or C-Balance), Bio-Calcium or SeaLab-28 mineral blocks. Aquarium water
that is out of balance requires correction with liquid calcium supplements and/or a KH or
pH buffer. The key here is testing. We dont know what is needed unless we check our
levels. Test your water weekly for both calcium and alkalinity. The hobbyist grade test
kits are very accurate and economical too! Remember... a stable environment promotes
healthy, thriving organisms.